This rotated off the hex and cracked the electrical connection at the top of the sensor. Then used the crow foot socket with a long extension. First tried the open end side of the stubby and although I could get it squarely on the hex head, I could not put enough force on the wrench to turn the sensor. I bought the stubby 19mm combination wrench and a 19mm crow foot socket. A 19mm socket will not work because of the width of the wiring connector. How do I remove the gauge temperature sensor? This is the front sensor under intake manifold runner number two with the two round pins. Put the new one in, tighten, then rinse away the slight leakage with a hose and top off the missing pint or less. The sealed system will glug out a little bit, then build a slight vacuum and stop. You really won't lose very much coolant at all. Get the old ECT loose, get the new one ready to go, then just pop the old one out and put the new one in as quickly as possible. When you remove any of the sensors, disconnect the battery negative cable.ĭo I Need to Drain the Coolant? Release any residual pressure in the system by opening the cap, then close it again. One of the temp sensor signals goes to the LH fuel injection computer, the other to the EZK ignition computer. Ground through the housing into the manifold. Thermistors are combined in one ECT sensor housing with two flat connectors and Behind the knock sensor under manifold runner three is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - ECT -which is in effect two sensors in one housing. ![]() ![]() It has two round pin connectors, one signal, one ground. Number two, just ahead of the knock sensor which is bolted in at an angle. The Temperature Gauge Sensor is at the front under intake manifold runner See Electrical: Ignition for more details on Hall sensors in LH 2.2 and earlier distributors.ī230F of the vintage discussed, 1989-1995 have in effect three temp sensors. See FAQ section in Engine: Fuel Injection for AMM information. ECU = Engine Control Unit computer (either fuel injection or ignition)Īir Mass Meter. Theres always that nagging doubt, is the pump chucking water out, or is it just gas ?īack to Op s problem. so when untying the stern lines it nice to physically see / hear water trickling our at stern corners. I have access to coolant inlet pressure on the pumps anyhow and do compare them, as with other stuff they rise and fall with the rpms and are identical.Īlso got “fart pipes “ to give a little back pressure relief with the underwater exhausts. So if mine started to not drop off when returning to a berth, stayed up at 84/85 then maybe the impeller vanes are loose / warn etc. Thinking ( happy to understand) does that tell you the range headroom, span of the system? I mentioned the marina manoeuvres after a run out to maybe establish if thats another way of accessing the coolant system health without having to risk alarms / overheating at the other end ?Īs said mine drop off loosing 4 or 5 degrees by the time I do my lines. My WoT or higher rev running shows no increase in jacket temps 84/85, but the oil temps rise proportionally. Or see the system by morning has drained down to the 1 inch below the lid level ? ![]() I guess the position of the cans is so I can remove the lid without sinking the boat. At start up that gap under the perspex lid fills up solid to the under sides of the Perspex. The top of the strainer, the last inch is above the WL and after shutdown a air gap appears by next morning. Guess it depends on the final position of the impellers, The pumps are mounted very low just at or above the WL. I can hear them trickle away if go in the ER after shutdown for up to 1/2 hr. the main coolers are pretty high up in relation to the WL. I suspect mine trickle down to empty at shut down. The sea temps play a small part, they are about 26 and rising where we are in the Med. Īfter a day anchor in the Med heat they are already there for he return trip. 5 mins tops after leaving the marina entrance. To speed this up I push a bow wave at 1000 rpm. Theses days I tend to wait until I see 60 on the gauges and digital read outs before getting it up on the plane.
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